AUTO = Automatic Mode
The camera will measure light, interpret and then adjust the camera settings. When the camera feel less environmental light conditions, the camera will automatically turn on the flash to compensate for the shortage.
Practical use automatic mode, but we are not free to adjust the camera settings, so that we can not create optimally. That's why this mode is only intended by the user who lay on photography. In some advanced and professional cameras, this mode does not exist.
P = Program Mode
Such as the automatic mode, the camera will determine the aperture setting, shutter speed automatically. The difference with the auto mode is, you can change the aperture value and shutter speed combination. In this mode, the camera will not turn on the flash though environmental conditions are quite dark. We also freely choose other camera settings, including determining the value of the ISO.
A / Av = Aperture priority
In this mode, we determine the magnitude of the lens aperture, and the camera determines shutter speed (shutter speed) as appropriate.
This mode includes my favorite mode, because I can define the sharp. Example, if I were photographing portraits of man, and I want to blur the background, then I would use a large aperture like f/2.8 or f/1.4. whereas if I were taking a group picture or scenery, and I want everything to be in sharp photo / focus, then I set a small aperture f / 8 or f/16.
Aperture also determines how much light enters. If I were a dark place and need more light, I will enlarge the openings let more light through.
To note in this mode if the ambient light is dark, the camera had to choose a slow shutter speed. It can make a photo blur due to camera shake when recording images. To that end, the solution is to use a tripod, or compensate by raising the ISO.
S / TV = Shutter priority
In this mode, we determine the value of shutter speed, aperture and the camera determines. This setting is used when we want to get the effect of freeze (frozen) or the effects of motion (motion).
If we set a fast shutter speed such as 1/500 sec, then the result is the movement of people or objects that are moving into the frozen, otherwise if we set 1/15 second or lower objects / people are moving, then we will capture the motion blur. This technique is suitable for recording the movement of the water at the beach, or recording motion waterfall of light passing cars at night. Such as aperture, shutter speed also affects the extent of the incoming light.
The problem that often arises is the camera not find the right aperture setting. If that happens, the images will be dark or too bright. If the camera is giving signs such as blinking, another evaluation value of shutter speed and ISO are used.
M = Manual Exposure
In this mode, we determine the aperture setting, shutter speed independently. We can also determine if the ISO Auto ISO is off.
I normally use manual mode if it is I want to get the photos with certain effects, for example if I wanted the photos are dark (low-key photography) so the end result is rather mysterious, dramatic. I also use manual focus if you want to make a silhouette of an object.
I also often use manual mode when the condition of the room / environment berganti2 intensity camera light is so confusing. Examples such as at a concert, the light is on with the intensity and direction changing, sometimes very bright, sometimes very dark.
I also often use manual when lighting conditions are not changing. For example, when a school basketball game in the room. At that time, I wrote the opening live set, and ISO speed before the game begins. The images will be consistent lighting and I can use this mode throughout the game.
